LAReview
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Pasjoli
At Pasjoli, classical French gets turned up to 11
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Pasjoli is a fancy French restaurant with much of the baggage that comes with the genre. It’s prix fixe only. Polished servers make you feel proper via osmosis. Butter is mandated by law.
Those details might suggest an outdated Santa Monica restaurant gouging people too rich to care about wine bottle markups. But eat the incredible pressed duck tasting menu, drink some 2016 Bordeaux, and the proof is in the (duck leg bread) pudding. Pasjoli backs up the traditional French schtick with technique and care. A night here offers some of the best indulgence money can buy on the Westside.
photo credit: Jakob Layman
photo credit: Jakob Layman
photo credit: Jakob Layman
photo credit: Jakob Layman
That said, we do think you’re getting a good deal. Pasjoli’s five-course prix fixe dinner is $95 per person and includes enough food to leave you stuffed like one of their choux canapés. Dishes sway traditionally French, but their presentation, however, makes things like chicken liver mousse suddenly seem sexy. Circles of the rich spread sit inside slices of brioche-like keyholes. Cloud-like scallop quenelles float in delicate beurre blanc, and shrimp toasts are bathed in lobster velouté thickened with rice for a light, silky texture. But nothing on the menu compares to Pasjoli’s pressed duck.
The demolition of this duck carcass tells you everything you need to know about Pasjoli’s food as a whole. It’s elaborate, showy, and genuinely delightful. For $125, you’re served a multi-course celebration of all things quack. First, the chef invites you to the kitchen pass to watch him squeeze Daffy in what looks like a medieval torture device. The juices are then used to whip up a cognac gravy in front of you, like a Costco food demo with a Marvel budget. After returning to your seats, you’re served a simple but perfect pile of lettuce topped with the bird’s crispy skin and a plate of leg meat baked into bread pudding. Somehow, you’ll be expected to go home and continue living every day knowing that meals this spectacular exist.
As deluxe as the duck press may be, Pasjoli’s space is otherwise unremarkable. The brick-walled dining room blurs in the background, neither adding to nor detracting from the experience in any way. There’s no valet service. You’ll hunt for a parking meter on Main Street Santa Monica as tipsy UCLA students walk into an Irish pub. Rest assured, servers wear uniforms and take their jobs seriously. Courses fade in and out before you have time to pick out the duck skin between your teeth. Each dish comes with a little TED Talk on what’s in front of you or maybe why the kitchen uses a wooden stick (not a metal one) to bake a hole in the brioche before stuffing it with chicken liver mousse. We’re talking fancy, not gaudy. That’s the energy.
Unless you come for cocktails, burgers, and deviled eggs at the bar (which has a separate, more casual menu), you’re not leaving Pasjoli without spending at least $100 per person. The splurge is worth the bill, though. Pasjoli might not have reinvented the wheel when it comes to the kind of buttery, showy French dinner suited for special occasions, but they have perfected it.
Food Rundown
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Foie De Poulet À La Strasbourgeoise
photo credit: Sylvio Martins
Quenelles
photo credit: sy
Shrimp & Lobster
photo credit: Jakob Layman
Canard À La Rouennaise À La Presse
photo credit: Jakob Layman