The front door at One Club Row is the hottest place to pose in east London. But the restaurant brings more than just New York-cool and branded matchboxes to Shoreditch. Juicy burgers come with a dipping sauce richer than the collective net value of the room (high), an unassuming lobster croquette demands the immediate formation of a squealing fan club (us and the waiter), and everyone who crosses the threshold (through a sexy curtain) is made to feel like a 10. 

photo credit: Justin De Souza

photo credit: Emily Hai

video credit: Emily Hai

This is less dining room and more convention of London’s most charismatic people. The maître d’ delivers zingers—“the shoes? Real cow, just like me”—with flair, and diners lean over white tablecloths to ask perfect strangers if the schnitzel is any good. But the ‘it’ restaurant doesn’t take itself too seriously. Case in point, the pianist sipping a drink midway through performing like they’re having a casual plonk on the keys at a house party, and the waiter jokingly crooning ‘happy birthday’ while bringing a plate of tea lights to a cackling table. 

photo credit: Justin De Souza

Camera-wielding influencers and chic finsta-type couples sit elbow to elbow at snug bistro-style tables, peace breaking out over olive oil martinis. Meanwhile, in naughty-kid corners, groups order rib-eyes and multiple rounds of Hemingway daiquiris. All sections of the menu warrant exploring, from a best-in-show caesar salad to crème brûlée with a hidden rice pudding layer. Our favourite way to round off the night is downstairs at The Knave Of Clubs. The pub is from the same team and pulls excellent pints.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Daisy Meager

Club Row Martini

A little sweet from the maraschino liqueur, charming presentation, and incredibly smooth. Just like One Club Row, really.

video credit: Emily Hai

Lobster & Country Ham Croquettes

The waiter who recommended these was almost breathless with enthusiasm—10 minutes later, we were too. The croquette is gooey. The amount of lobster is generous. We could eat several of these on our own.

video credit: Emily Hai

Classic Steak Tartare, Beef Dripping Bread

A solid, tasty, well-seasoned tartare. The piquant little pops from the pickles are lovely. It’s not going to change your world, but that’s quite a lot to ask of a tartare anyway.

photo credit: Emily Hai

Pork Schnitzel, Sauce Moutarde, Gorgonzola

This schnitzel is a ‘pick-me’. And we love that about it. Show-off dollops of creamy gorgonzola dolce and shiny sauce moutarde (made with ale from The Knave Of Clubs) make this the ultimate big, adult nugget.

video credit: Emily Hai

One Club Row Cheeseburger “Au Poivre”

One of the best burgers in London. This is a tavern-style burger, with a thick, juicy patty served medium rare, plus raw onions and pickles. The savoury, beefy dipping sauce is the kind that makes you forget your manners, and the person sitting across from you.

video credit: Emily Hai

Roasted Scallop, Confit Garlic Butter

These scallops are perfectly good, but it’s a big menu and a lot of it stuck with us more than these did.

photo credit: Emily Hai

Caesar Salad, Anchovies & Aged Parmesan

Note-perfect caesar salad. The kind that reminds you why you love it so much. The croutons are thinly sliced shards rather than chunks—so chic—and the dressing is light, coating each crisp lettuce leaf without causing any dreaded clagging.

photo credit: Emily Hai

Rice Pudding Crème Brulée

We respect the innovation. We respect the face card. This is the dessert to get here. A gorgeous silver goblet of caramel creaminess, with a hidden, comforting layer of rice pudding.