This tropical bar in the old bar area of Momofuku Ko has the lively but precise 4/4 energy of a soca band. Servers in tie-dye aprons dance around a small center table, and bartenders vigorously shake cocktails under lights that look like halved coconuts. A neon sign outside may advertise wine and daiquiris, the latter of which are subtle and perfect for slow sipping, but Bar Kabawa's non-daiquiri cocktails are great too, like a simple yet effective rhum agricole-spiked green coconut for two.

photo credit: Sonal Shah

photo credit: Bar Kabawa

photo credit: Sonal Shah

photo credit: Sonal Shah

photo credit: Bar Kabawa

Occasionally, when the energy hits high tide, the chef standing in front of a Bajan flag might ring an old bell. Not to indicate that the Caribbean "Tum Tum Yum Yums" on the short snacky menu are ready, but just because he's having a nice time. Bar Kabawa's food—a preview of the forthcoming, full-fledged restaurant next-door—is very much worth trying. Either grab a patty at the long bar for walk-ins (the epicenter of fun), and call it a night. Or, reserve a seat at one of the high-tops and make dinner out of a few of those, plus some pickled vegetables and seafood dishes.

Food Rundown

photo credit: Sonal Shah

Cocktails

The daiquiris are great—especially the coconut and pineapple, and the green juice-like bay leaf one. But we like the non-daq cocktails even more. Of those, try the Gwuayav, with the subtlest hint of guava shining through a dark rum from Saint Lucia, and the Soft Landing, a spritz with brown butter that's somehow warming and refreshing at the same time.

photo credit: Sonal Shah

Solomon Gundy

Always start with this. A light, persistent heat runs through the mousse-like fish dip, which is bruleed on top for some pizzazz. Break apart the big, rectangular, slightly sweet cassava chips and have at it.

photo credit: Sonal Shah

Pickled Okra

There isn't a hint of slime on these okra, which snap and crunch as if they've been fried while still tasting fresh. And the dribble of crumbly salt cod XO brings everything together.

photo credit: Bar Kabawa

Patties

After trying all eight baked or fried patties, here are our favorites listed in order: pepperpot duck and foie; short rib, conch and bone marrow; eggplant, tomato and raclette; lobster & red herring; geera goat; chicken criollo and mushroom; kale and oats. In each, the pastry is supremely flaky—with swirled lamination for the fried ones—and the fillings are juicy, chunky, and packed with flavors like cumin, cassareep, and pepper.

photo credit: Sonal Shah

Bajan Black Pudding

Both this and the scallop with pikliz are nice contrasts to all that patty pastry. The herby souse has cubes of sweet black pudding, and bits of cartilaginous and intestinal pig parts.

Caramelized Ducana

A delicious, not-too-sweet sweet potato dumpling with burnt edges and a scoop of ice cream.